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Re: Module Legs
I agree.
Let's book a work-day to fix da' legs...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott A Smiley" <sc.smiley@juno.com>
To: <ttat-members@aoot.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Module Legs
> Ira is right on on this topic. the biggest thing that he pointed out is
> that the cheap furring strips at Home Depot is not 1x2 and cannot be used
> for the socket spacers since most of the old legs are from actual 1x2
> lumber. Yes I agree that the legs should be 38" and all should be the
> same. If we start having some 5/16" decks, this will have to be taken up
> by the bolts.
>
> The other function that will speed set up is to get the legs adjusted to
> the same "proper" length before they are inserted into the modules.
> Then, only the floor variations will have to be taken care of after set
> up.
>
> Scott
>
>
> On Sun, 17 Mar 2002 08:08:38 -0600 "Ira Schneider"
> <ira_schneider@Iname.com> writes:
> > I am tired of hearing complaints about the module legs and fighting
> > the legs when trying to assemble
> > our layout at a run.
> >
> > Here are the problems as I see them:
> >
> > 1. The height of the legs is not uniform. Many of the newer legs
> > are cut to 38-1/2", as specified in the
> > Module Specification dated 2/98. Some of the newer legs are
> > cut to 38", as specified in the
> > Draft Module Specification being developed by Ed Weltens. The
> > older legs are various lengths.
> >
> > 2. Many of the legs do not fit into the leg sockets. This is
> > particularly true of old legs and newer modules.
> > It appears that there is an ambiguity in the size of the space
> > for the leg in the Leg Socket portion
> > of the Module Specification. The Module Specification says to
> > leave a 1x2 space for the leg. However,
> > apparently the older modules left a 1" x 2" space (which is
> > significantly larger than 1x2 lumber).
> >
> > I believe we need to do several things:
> >
> > 1. Agree on the "correct" length for the legs. According to Jim,
> > the "critical dimension" is that the top of the
> > rail is supposed to be 40" above the floor. This is made up of
> > the height of the rail (11/16" - according
> > to the Lionel Trains web site), thickness of the deck
> > (nominally 1/4"), the length of the leg (to be
> > determined), the thickness of the bolt head and nut
> > (approximately 3/8"), and the exposed thread
> > on the adjusting bolt (variable). Adding up the known
> > quantities (11/16" + 1/4" + 3/8") and subtracting
> > them from 40" leaves approximately 38-5/8" for the leg and
> > exposed thread. The 38-1/2" legs
> > as specified in the 2/98 Module Specification only leaves 1/8"
> > exposed thread on the adjusting bolt.
> > This is not really enough. If we cut the legs to 38" (as
> > specified in Ed's Draft Module Specification)
> > we get 5/8" exposed thread, which is sufficient. I suggest we
> > adopt 38" as the nominal length of the legs.
> >
> > 2. Agree on the "correct" thickness for the legs. Since we are
> > using 1x2 lumber to build the leg sockets,
> > I think the legs should be made from 1x2 lumber and sanded to
> > EASILY fit in the existing modules.
> > (Note: Home Depot is selling "1x2 Appearance Grade" lumber
> > which is sanded, has rounded corners,
> > and is thinner than standard 1x2 lumber. This material is
> > GREAT for legs, but unacceptable for
> > the leg sockets.
> >
> > 3. Once we agree on how long and how thick the legs should be we
> > should have a "Leg Adjusting Party"
> > at someone's house (garage or workshop). We need a host with
> > the appropriate power tools
> > (I think a Radial Arm Saw and a Power Sander are needed) to be
> > able to easily adjust our existing
> > legs. We need to get ALL of the legs out of the trailer, cut
> > them down to the proper length, and
> > sand the first 3-1/4" of them so they easily fit within the
> > tight leg socket of one of our new modules
> > (like Ed's bridge module or my accessory module). After the
> > wood is cut and sanded, we need to
> > adjust the bolts so the overall length of the leg (wood +
> > exposed bolt) is uniform. All legs which are
> > adjusted (and thereby certified to work correctly) should be
> > marked somehow (I suggest a band
> > of green paint at the bolt end of the leg) so we can easily
> > distinguish the "good" legs from the
> > "questionable" legs at a run. I suggest that anyone who has
> > private legs at their homes should
> > also bring them to the Leg Adjusting Party to have them
> > adjusted and certified.
> >
> > If we could easily get the legs out of the trailer we should have
> > this Leg Adjusting Party before the
> > April 20th run at New Braunfels. Since we would have to unload most
> > of the stuff in the middle of
> > the trailer to get to the legs, it may be easier to postpone this
> > activity until after April 20th. In this
> > case, we would just keep the legs out when we repack the trailer,
> > take them home with us, and
> > bring them to the party. We could then bring the legs back at the
> > next run.
> >
> > What do you think about this? Do we have any other suggestions for
> > the length of the legs, how to
> > adjust their thickness, or how to "certify" them? Do we want to
> > undertake this activity at all?
> > If so, do we have any volunteers for the site of the Leg Adjusting
> > Party, who would be willing to
> > participate, and when should we have it?
> >
> >
> > Ira
> >
> >
> > ------
> > TTAT members reflector.
> >
>
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