Re: Module Legs

[Scott A Smiley <sc.smiley@juno.com>]

Ira is right on on this topic.  the biggest thing that he pointed out is
that the cheap furring strips at Home Depot is not 1x2 and cannot be used
for the socket spacers since most of the old legs are from actual 1x2
lumber.  Yes I agree that the legs should be 38" and all should be the
same.  If we start having some 5/16" decks, this will have to be taken up
by the bolts.  

The other function that will speed set up is to get the legs adjusted to
the same "proper" length before they are inserted into the modules. 
Then, only the floor variations will have to be taken care of after set
up.

Scott


On Sun, 17 Mar 2002 08:08:38 -0600 "Ira Schneider"
<ira_schneider@Iname.com> writes:
> I am tired of hearing complaints about the module legs and fighting 
> the legs when trying to assemble
> our layout at a run.
> 
> Here are the problems as I see them:
> 
> 1. The height of the legs is not uniform.  Many of the newer legs 
> are cut to 38-1/2", as specified in the
>      Module Specification dated 2/98.  Some of the newer legs are 
> cut to 38", as specified in the
>      Draft Module Specification being developed by Ed Weltens.  The 
> older legs are various lengths.
> 
> 2. Many of the legs do not fit into the leg sockets.  This is 
> particularly true of old legs and newer modules.
>      It appears that there is an ambiguity in the size of the space 
> for the leg in the Leg Socket portion
>      of the Module Specification.  The Module Specification says to 
> leave a 1x2 space for the leg.  However,
>      apparently the older modules left a 1" x 2" space (which is 
> significantly larger than 1x2 lumber).
> 
> I believe we need to do several things:
> 
> 1. Agree on the "correct" length for the legs.  According to Jim, 
> the "critical dimension" is that the top of the
>      rail is supposed to be 40" above the floor.  This is made up of 
> the height of the rail (11/16" - according
>      to the Lionel Trains web site), thickness of the deck 
> (nominally 1/4"), the length of the leg (to be
>      determined), the thickness of the bolt head and nut 
> (approximately 3/8"), and the exposed thread
>      on the adjusting bolt (variable).  Adding up the known 
> quantities (11/16" + 1/4" + 3/8") and subtracting
>      them from 40" leaves approximately 38-5/8" for the leg and 
> exposed thread.  The 38-1/2" legs
>      as specified in the 2/98 Module Specification only leaves 1/8" 
> exposed thread on the adjusting bolt.
>      This is not really enough.  If we cut the legs to 38" (as 
> specified in Ed's Draft Module Specification)
>      we get 5/8" exposed thread, which is sufficient.  I suggest we 
> adopt 38" as the nominal length of the legs.
> 
> 2. Agree on the "correct" thickness for the legs.  Since we are 
> using 1x2 lumber to build the leg sockets,
>      I think the legs should be made from 1x2 lumber and sanded to 
> EASILY fit in the existing modules.
>      (Note:  Home Depot is selling "1x2 Appearance Grade" lumber 
> which is sanded, has rounded corners,
>      and is thinner than standard 1x2 lumber.  This material is 
> GREAT for legs, but unacceptable for
>      the leg sockets.
> 
> 3. Once we agree on how long and how thick the legs should be we 
> should have a "Leg Adjusting Party"
>      at someone's house (garage or workshop).  We need a host with 
> the appropriate power tools
>      (I think a Radial Arm Saw and a Power Sander are needed) to be 
> able to easily adjust our existing
>      legs.  We need to get ALL of the legs out of the trailer, cut 
> them down to the proper length, and
>      sand the first 3-1/4" of them so they easily fit within the 
> tight leg socket of one of our new modules
>      (like Ed's bridge module or my accessory module).  After the 
> wood is cut and sanded, we need to
>      adjust the bolts so the overall length of the leg (wood + 
> exposed bolt) is uniform.  All legs which are
>      adjusted (and thereby certified to work correctly) should be 
> marked somehow (I suggest a band
>      of green paint at the bolt end of the leg) so we can easily 
> distinguish the "good" legs from the
>      "questionable" legs at a run.  I suggest that anyone who has 
> private legs at their homes should
>      also bring them to the Leg Adjusting Party to have them 
> adjusted and certified.
> 
> If we could easily get the legs out of the trailer we should have 
> this Leg Adjusting Party before the
> April 20th run at New Braunfels.  Since we would have to unload most 
> of the stuff in the middle of
> the trailer to get to the legs, it may be easier to postpone this 
> activity until after April 20th.  In this
> case, we would just keep the legs out when we repack the trailer, 
> take them home with us, and
> bring them to the party.  We could then bring the legs back at the 
> next run.
> 
> What do you think about this?  Do we have any other suggestions for 
> the length of the legs, how to
> adjust their thickness, or how to "certify" them?  Do we want to 
> undertake this activity at all?
> If so, do we have any volunteers for the site of the Leg Adjusting 
> Party, who would be willing to
> participate, and when should we have it?
> 
> 
> Ira
> 
> 
> ------
> TTAT members reflector.
> 

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.