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Re: SAMRA and New Ideas



Here is a little comparison or 20 gauge and 18 gauge wires.  In our use, every location is fed by at least 2- 20 gauge wires, one from each way around the loop.  The  "ampacity " of  a 20 gauge wire is about the amount we need for our trains.  Since we have two wires, I do not see where we would have a problem.  The track also carries some current.  I am not opposed to 18 gauge wire.  I know that we already have an abundant supply of 20 gauge that a member has purchased for others to buy as needed because it is not a commonly available size.

 

Scott



Enter AWG: 
Enter Temperature:  [Degrees C]

Copper Area:  [Circular Mils]
Copper Area:  [Square Mils]
Copper Diameter:  [Mils]
Resistance:  [Ohms per Ft.]
Single Wire Ampacity:  [Amps]

Enter AWG: 
Enter Temperature:  [Degrees C]

Copper Area:  [Circular Mils]
Copper Area:  [Square Mils]
Copper Diameter:  [Mils]
Resistance:  [Ohms per Ft.]
Single Wire Ampacity:  [Amps

 
On Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:39:04 -0600 "Steve Wise" <swise@aoot.com> writes:
I don't recommend using 20 gauge.
 
18 should be the minimum for track power.

Voltage loss isn't the only problem.  A short or even a lash-up pulling 5-7 amps could heat up smaller wires, right?
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: SAMRA and New Ideas

There are several spools of the 20 gauge wire that we have used to date that my Dad has purchased.  With the clean plugs, we only had a small voltage loss around the layout.  Completing the loop as we do and the jumper reduce even that.  I do not think that we have a wire size problem.  My Dad is happy to sell the wire for cost and has all the colors.
 
Scott
 
On Thu, 07 Feb 2002 12:19:33 -0600 Adrian Elliott <aelliott@jump.net> writes:
I like the 14 AWG stranded stuff.  Sure, it is a little more work to cut it to fit the jones plugs but it will have no problem carrying whatever current we dish out in the future.  If we don't go with the 14 AWG we should still use stranded wire in whatever gauge we decide upon for the reason that Ira mentioned.

For the setup test power how about modifying the harness of the KW so that it could plug into the module harness anywhere.  That way regardless of where we start lashing up the layout we could have the kw test power hooked up.  I think we still have a few unused jones plugs in the toolbox.

Ira Schneider wrote:

Make sure you use good wire for the new corner modules.

The wire MUST follow the club's official color coding.  That means you need 9 different colored wires.
It would be much better to use stranded wire instead of solid wire.  Stranded wire is much better for
AC applications and would be more flexible (and less likely to break) for the ends which are bent and
unbent when connecting the connectors.  I would also suggest that we use a minimum of 18 AWG wire
to minimize voltage loss.

All that being said, the club could purchase 9 spools of 18 AWG stranded wire (either locally (I think
Fry's and Tinkertronics sells spools of wire) or via mail order (less expensive)) in the appropriate colors.
Alternatively, if we want to settle for solid wire, Home Depot sells 10 conductor 18 AWG wire by the
foot as "sprinkler wire" and as "thermostat wire".  Another possibility is the 14 AWG stranded wire
that Home Depot sells by the foot.  The problem with this wire is that it is too heavy to go into the
Jones plugs unmodified - you have to trim the ends down to approximately 18 AWG size with a wire
cutter.  The advantage is that they do sell it in all needed colors.

Also, I would strongly suggest that at least one of the new corner modules be wired with two female
Jones plugs (4-pin and 6-pin) near the front of the inside corner so we can connect the wiring harness
from the test transformer, like the Swamp corner module.  That way, if the Swamp module, which is
owned by Jim Smiley, is ever taken out of service for a show we can still connect the test transformer
during setup.

Ira

------
TTAT members reflector.

------ TTAT members reflector.
 


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