I for got that the one you have has the doors. It is already
braced. This also means that you do not need plastic boxes unless you
remove the door structure. Either is OK. The door system is a
little heavier than the boxes but both work. I broke out the
longitudinal on the one I redid recently and it is difficult. Do not
worry about it .
Scott,
Stranded 18AWG it is. The difference in
resistance for 100 feet of wire is about 0.4 ohms. Not much, but
wire's cheap. The weight difference will be about 2 ounces. I
will keep the pigtails in the center of the module.
I
don't quite understand what you mean about a 1X2 brace. Right now
there are two 1X2 cross braces, plus the two sliding door boxes at the
ends. Do you want a longitudinal brace between the centers of the short
sides? Should it run below the two cross braces? The clearance below
the cross braces is about 1.25". I could perhaps notch a
longitudinal brace over the two cross braces. However I do not see
that the scheme will do much to alleviate any sagging. I have new
K-Line one piece tracks to install, and I will acertain the
level before I tighten them down.
For the connector boxes, it is easy to remove the
hardboard, but the 1X2 frames are glued in place. Should I leave them
alone or chip them out? I guess the four of them together weigh abouit
20 ounces.
Finally, I do not think that I will need to add
much paint to the module, but I would like to touch it up in a couple
of places. Does anyone have a couple of brushfills of standard paint
for me to use?
I
have attached a sketch of the existing ans proposed frame.
Regards,
Mike
Not that I disagree with what everyone else is saying, but it is
probably not required to change the wires out unless you want to do
that. The original spec was for 20 gauge and that is what is on most
modules. WE recently decided to have any new modules go to 18
gauge. We probably loose more power in the plugs than the
wire. Since the wire is looped, the current can get through the 20
but 18 is better. I am not sure about the 70" length. 48" plus
a foot extra is only 60 ". The 70" may be a hold over from when we
plugged the wire together for transport. Since we now use boxes for
the plugs, the wires can be as Ira said, about 60", unless you fix them to
one side and the module you are matching with has them on the other side,
2' apart. The 60" assumes they go down the middle. if
they go around the edges, more wire is needed to get back to the
center.
I have found some nice cheap plastic boxes at Michaels.
We do not want solid wire!
If you really have this all apart, a 1x2 brace across the center is a
good addition since the 1/4" decking has sagged on several modules over
the years.
I like the Velcro pole idea. Look forward to see how it
works.
there was a interesting article in CTT just awhile back on
ballasting. They put tape over the ties and ballast on top of the
tape. Very little volume of ballast required since it was void under
the tape. This may not be appropriate for the club due to the abuse
the modules take.
Scott
Hello Mike, there is no rush to get your
module done. If you don't have it by GATS that is Ok, unless
you want it done by then.
It is usually easiest to solder the jumper wires to
the track sections before they are attached to the module. Sounds
like you are having fun with the module.
Adrian.
Ed,
Although I have almost got all the technical specs nailed, it
would be nice to have an electronic copy of the module spec if you
have it in that form.
I have quite a lot of wire so I'd better look around before I
put in an order. We have been having a lot of fun with this
module. We will probably take on another next year for Hugh's
contribution, but I won't make the mistake of crowding that holidays
so much again.
I have another idea to offer, which I had seen on some other
club's layout. I got a dozen plastic open wire telephone
polse. I saw one club's layout where these were installed at the
velcro edge of the modules. Even if you don't string them with
'wire' they tend to form a bit of a fence for the
public.
Hugh and I are coming to the Fun Run on Saturday. Hope to
see you then.
Regards,
Mike
Mike, as long as it isn't aquarium gravel I think it will be
ok.
I do have all the colors of wire available in 18-gauge stranded
spools. I think I paid between 7-10 cents per foot for the 100
foot spools. I can get you whatever you need for $5 for the
whole module. There are 10 wires total and you need some short
connector pieces. I also have some of the jones plug
connectors if you need replacements. There may be more in the
trailer.
I can print you a copy of the module specs if you like.
Ed
Pauwels Mike-rycl90
<Mike.Pauwels@motorola.com> wrote:
Ira,
I
was experimenting with depleted uranium since it is denser than
lead. ;o)
Seriously, I have an 8 ounce bag of ballast and I
do not expect to use it all. I have selected a light brown
indoor/outdoor carpeting material which will allow me to minimize
the actual ballast used. I will weigh the left over and let you
know how much I
installed.
Regards,
Mike
-----Original
Message-----
From: ttat-members-owner@aoot.com
[mailto:ttat-members-owner@aoot.com]On
Behalf Of Ira
Schneider
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:05 PM
To:
ttat-members@aoot.com
Subject: Re: Module Information
Please
Mike,
Here are some answers to your
questions:
1. The TTAT Draft Module Specification specifies
the wire is 18 AWG (see page 17 - Materials List).
2. We
strongly suggest using stranded wire, since it is more flexib! le
and will work better at the connectors.
3. The TTAT Draft
Module Specification specifies that each piece of wire is to be
70" long. This
allows for approximately 6" at each end for the
pigtail.
4. The wires are to be individual lengths of 18
AWG stranded wire, not bundled cables. We keep the
wires
separate so they are easier to see, easier to connect to in the
middle, and easy to spot
problems. When I constructed my module
I encased the individual wires in spiral wrap for
neatness,
which was totally unneccesary. Ed Weltens had spools
of wire of all appropriate colors. If he still has
some of this
wire, I am sure he will be happy to sell you the wire you need at
cost.
When you experiment with ballast remember that
ballast adds weight to the module.
Good
luck.
Ira
------
TTAT members
reflector.
------
TTAT members
reflector.