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RE: Module Information Please
Scott,
Stranded 18AWG it is. The difference in
resistance for 100 feet of wire is about 0.4 ohms. Not much, but
wire's cheap. The weight difference will be about 2 ounces. I will
keep the pigtails in the center of the module.
I
don't quite understand what you mean about a 1X2 brace. Right now there
are two 1X2 cross braces, plus the two sliding door boxes at the ends. Do
you want a longitudinal brace between the centers of the short sides? Should it
run below the two cross braces? The clearance below the cross
braces is about 1.25". I could perhaps notch a longitudinal
brace over the two cross braces. However I do not see that the scheme will
do much to alleviate any sagging. I have new K-Line one piece tracks to
install, and I will acertain the level before I tighten them
down.
For
the connector boxes, it is easy to remove the hardboard, but the 1X2 frames are
glued in place. Should I leave them alone or chip them out? I guess
the four of them together weigh abouit 20 ounces.
Finally, I do not think that I will need to add much
paint to the module, but I would like to touch it up in a couple of
places. Does anyone have a couple of brushfills of standard paint for me
to use?
I have
attached a sketch of the existing ans proposed frame.
Regards,
Mike
Not that I disagree with what everyone else is saying, but it is probably
not required to change the wires out unless you want to do that. The
original spec was for 20 gauge and that is what is on most modules. WE
recently decided to have any new modules go to 18 gauge. We probably
loose more power in the plugs than the wire. Since the wire is looped,
the current can get through the 20 but 18 is better. I am not sure about
the 70" length. 48" plus a foot extra is only 60 ". The 70" may be
a hold over from when we plugged the wire together for transport. Since
we now use boxes for the plugs, the wires can be as Ira said, about 60",
unless you fix them to one side and the module you are matching with has them
on the other side, 2' apart. The 60" assumes they go down the
middle. if they go around the edges, more wire is needed to get back to
the center.
I have found some nice cheap plastic boxes at Michaels.
We do not want solid wire!
If you really have this all apart, a 1x2 brace across the center is a
good addition since the 1/4" decking has sagged on several modules over the
years.
I like the Velcro pole idea. Look forward to see how it
works.
there was a interesting article in CTT just awhile back on
ballasting. They put tape over the ties and ballast on top of the
tape. Very little volume of ballast required since it was void under the
tape. This may not be appropriate for the club due to the abuse the
modules take.
Scott
Hello Mike, there is no rush to get your module done. If
you don't have it by GATS that is Ok, unless you want it done by
then.
It is usually easiest to solder the jumper wires to the track
sections before they are attached to the module. Sounds like you are
having fun with the module.
Adrian.
Ed,
Although I have almost got all the technical specs nailed, it would
be nice to have an electronic copy of the module spec if you have it in
that form.
I have quite a lot of wire so I'd better look around before I put
in an order. We have been having a lot of fun with this
module. We will probably take on another next year for Hugh's
contribution, but I won't make the mistake of crowding that holidays so
much again.
I have another idea to offer, which I had seen on some other club's
layout. I got a dozen plastic open wire telephone polse.
I saw one club's layout where these were installed at the velcro edge of
the modules. Even if you don't string them with 'wire' they tend to
form a bit of a fence for the public.
Hugh and I are coming to the Fun Run on Saturday. Hope to see
you then.
Regards,
Mike
Mike, as long as it isn't aquarium gravel I think it will be
ok.
I do have all the colors of wire available in 18-gauge stranded
spools. I think I paid between 7-10 cents per foot for the 100
foot spools. I can get you whatever you need for $5 for the whole
module. There are 10 wires total and you need some short connector
pieces. I also have some of the jones plug connectors if you need
replacements. There may be more in the trailer.
I can print you a copy of the module specs if you like.
Ed
Pauwels Mike-rycl90
<Mike.Pauwels@motorola.com> wrote:
Ira,
I
was experimenting with depleted uranium since it is denser than lead.
;o)
Seriously, I have an 8 ounce bag of ballast and I do not
expect to use it all. I have selected a light brown indoor/outdoor
carpeting material which will allow me to minimize the actual ballast
used. I will weigh the left over and let you know how much I
installed.
Regards,
Mike
-----Original
Message-----
From: ttat-members-owner@aoot.com
[mailto:ttat-members-owner@aoot.com]On
Behalf Of Ira
Schneider
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:05 PM
To:
ttat-members@aoot.com
Subject: Re: Module Information
Please
Mike,
Here are some answers to your
questions:
1. The TTAT Draft Module Specification specifies the
wire is 18 AWG (see page 17 - Materials List).
2. We strongly
suggest using stranded wire, since it is more flexib! le and will work
better at the connectors.
3. The TTAT Draft Module
Specification specifies that each piece of wire is to be 70" long.
This
allows for approximately 6" at each end for the
pigtail.
4. The wires are to be individual lengths of 18 AWG
stranded wire, not bundled cables. We keep the
wires separate so
they are easier to see, easier to connect to in the middle, and easy
to spot
problems. When I constructed my module I encased the
individual wires in spiral wrap for neatness,
which was totally
unneccesary. Ed Weltens had spools of wire of all appropriate colors.
If he still has
some of this wire, I am sure he will be happy to
sell you the wire you need at cost.
When you experiment with
ballast remember that ballast adds weight to the module.
Good
luck.
Ira
------
TTAT members
reflector.
------
TTAT members
reflector.
TTAT Module Drawing.pdf