[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: Module Information Please
Not that I disagree with what everyone else is saying, but it is probably
not required to change the wires out unless you want to do that. The
original spec was for 20 gauge and that is what is on most modules. WE
recently decided to have any new modules go to 18 gauge. We probably loose
more power in the plugs than the wire. Since the wire is looped, the
current can get through the 20 but 18 is better. I am not sure about the
70" length. 48" plus a foot extra is only 60 ". The 70" may be a
hold over from when we plugged the wire together for transport. Since we
now use boxes for the plugs, the wires can be as Ira said, about 60", unless you
fix them to one side and the module you are matching with has them on the other
side, 2' apart. The 60" assumes they go down the middle. if
they go around the edges, more wire is needed to get back to the center.
I have found some nice cheap plastic boxes at Michaels.
We do not want solid wire!
If you really have this all apart, a 1x2 brace across the center is a good
addition since the 1/4" decking has sagged on several modules over the
years.
I like the Velcro pole idea. Look forward to see how it
works.
there was a interesting article in CTT just awhile back on
ballasting. They put tape over the ties and ballast on top of the
tape. Very little volume of ballast required since it was void under the
tape. This may not be appropriate for the club due to the abuse the
modules take.
Scott
Hello Mike, there is no rush to get your module done. If
you don't have it by GATS that is Ok, unless you want it done by
then.
It is usually easiest to solder the jumper wires to the track sections
before they are attached to the module. Sounds like you are having fun
with the module.
Adrian.
Ed,
Although I have almost got all the technical specs nailed, it would
be nice to have an electronic copy of the module spec if you have it in that
form.
I
have quite a lot of wire so I'd better look around before I put in an
order. We have been having a lot of fun with this module. We
will probably take on another next year for Hugh's contribution, but I won't
make the mistake of crowding that holidays so much
again.
I
have another idea to offer, which I had seen on some other club's
layout. I got a dozen plastic open wire telephone polse. I
saw one club's layout where these were installed at the velcro edge of the
modules. Even if you don't string them with 'wire' they tend to form a
bit of a fence for the public.
Hugh and I are coming to the Fun Run on Saturday. Hope to see
you then.
Regards,
Mike
Mike, as long as it isn't aquarium gravel I think it will be
ok.
I do have all the colors of wire available in 18-gauge stranded
spools. I think I paid between 7-10 cents per foot for the 100 foot
spools. I can get you whatever you need for $5 for the whole
module. There are 10 wires total and you need some short connector
pieces. I also have some of the jones plug connectors if you need
replacements. There may be more in the trailer.
I can print you a copy of the module specs if you like.
Ed
Pauwels Mike-rycl90
<Mike.Pauwels@motorola.com> wrote:
Ira,
I
was experimenting with depleted uranium since it is denser than lead.
;o)
Seriously, I have an 8 ounce bag of ballast and I do not
expect to use it all. I have selected a light brown indoor/outdoor
carpeting material which will allow me to minimize the actual ballast
used. I will weigh the left over and let you know how much I
installed.
Regards,
Mike
-----Original
Message-----
From: ttat-members-owner@aoot.com
[mailto:ttat-members-owner@aoot.com]On
Behalf Of Ira
Schneider
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:05 PM
To:
ttat-members@aoot.com
Subject: Re: Module Information
Please
Mike,
Here are some answers to your
questions:
1. The TTAT Draft Module Specification specifies the
wire is 18 AWG (see page 17 - Materials List).
2. We strongly
suggest using stranded wire, since it is more flexib! le and will work
better at the connectors.
3. The TTAT Draft Module Specification
specifies that each piece of wire is to be 70" long. This
allows for
approximately 6" at each end for the pigtail.
4. The wires are to
be individual lengths of 18 AWG stranded wire, not bundled cables. We
keep the
wires separate so they are easier to see, easier to connect
to in the middle, and easy to spot
problems. When I constructed my
module I encased the individual wires in spiral wrap for
neatness,
which was totally unneccesary. Ed Weltens had spools of
wire of all appropriate colors. If he still has
some of this wire, I
am sure he will be happy to sell you the wire you need at
cost.
When you experiment with ballast remember that ballast adds
weight to the module.
Good
luck.
Ira
------
TTAT members
reflector.
------
TTAT members
reflector.