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Re: Module Legs

1. 38" sounds good to me.
2. If we mark the legs lets go ahead and paint them fully with the club green except for the top 3" or 4" inches or so so the paint will not interfere with the leg pockets.
3. thickness of the leg pocket should be sloppy, very sloppy.  But the quality of the 1x2 stock varies greatly.  The thickness of the 1x2 varies enough to give us problems.  This causes some leg pockets to be thinner, and thus tighter than others.  Perhaps we should use the construction grade 1x2 for the leg pockets and the finish grade 1x2 for the legs as the finish grade is actually thinner than the other.

As for the current legs, cut them and then sand them real good. :-)
 
 

Ira Schneider wrote:

I am tired of hearing complaints about the module legs and fighting the legs when trying to assemble
our layout at a run.

Here are the problems as I see them:

1. The height of the legs is not uniform.  Many of the newer legs are cut to 38-1/2", as specified in the
     Module Specification dated 2/98.  Some of the newer legs are cut to 38", as specified in the
     Draft Module Specification being developed by Ed Weltens.  The older legs are various lengths.

2. Many of the legs do not fit into the leg sockets.  This is particularly true of old legs and newer modules.
     It appears that there is an ambiguity in the size of the space for the leg in the Leg Socket portion
     of the Module Specification.  The Module Specification says to leave a 1x2 space for the leg.  However,
     apparently the older modules left a 1" x 2" space (which is significantly larger than 1x2 lumber).

I believe we need to do several things:

1. Agree on the "correct" length for the legs.  According to Jim, the "critical dimension" is that the top of the
     rail is supposed to be 40" above the floor.  This is made up of the height of the rail (11/16" - according
     to the Lionel Trains web site), thickness of the deck (nominally 1/4"), the length of the leg (to be
     determined), the thickness of the bolt head and nut (approximately 3/8"), and the exposed thread
     on the adjusting bolt (variable).  Adding up the known quantities (11/16" + 1/4" + 3/8") and subtracting
     them from 40" leaves approximately 38-5/8" for the leg and exposed thread.  The 38-1/2" legs
     as specified in the 2/98 Module Specification only leaves 1/8" exposed thread on the adjusting bolt.
     This is not really enough.  If we cut the legs to 38" (as specified in Ed's Draft Module Specification)
     we get 5/8" exposed thread, which is sufficient.  I suggest we adopt 38" as the nominal length of the legs.

2. Agree on the "correct" thickness for the legs.  Since we are using 1x2 lumber to build the leg sockets,
     I think the legs should be made from 1x2 lumber and sanded to EASILY fit in the existing modules.
     (Note:  Home Depot is selling "1x2 Appearance Grade" lumber which is sanded, has rounded corners,
     and is thinner than standard 1x2 lumber.  This material is GREAT for legs, but unacceptable for
     the leg sockets.

3. Once we agree on how long and how thick the legs should be we should have a "Leg Adjusting Party"
     at someone's house (garage or workshop).  We need a host with the appropriate power tools
     (I think a Radial Arm Saw and a Power Sander are needed) to be able to easily adjust our existing
     legs.  We need to get ALL of the legs out of the trailer, cut them down to the proper length, and
     sand the first 3-1/4" of them so they easily fit within the tight leg socket of one of our new modules
     (like Ed's bridge module or my accessory module).  After the wood is cut and sanded, we need to
     adjust the bolts so the overall length of the leg (wood + exposed bolt) is uniform.  All legs which are
     adjusted (and thereby certified to work correctly) should be marked somehow (I suggest a band
     of green paint at the bolt end of the leg) so we can easily distinguish the "good" legs from the
     "questionable" legs at a run.  I suggest that anyone who has private legs at their homes should
     also bring them to the Leg Adjusting Party to have them adjusted and certified.

If we could easily get the legs out of the trailer we should have this Leg Adjusting Party before the
April 20th run at New Braunfels.  Since we would have to unload most of the stuff in the middle of
the trailer to get to the legs, it may be easier to postpone this activity until after April 20th.  In this
case, we would just keep the legs out when we repack the trailer, take them home with us, and
bring them to the party.  We could then bring the legs back at the next run.

What do you think about this?  Do we have any other suggestions for the length of the legs, how to
adjust their thickness, or how to "certify" them?  Do we want to undertake this activity at all?
If so, do we have any volunteers for the site of the Leg Adjusting Party, who would be willing to
participate, and when should we have it?

Ira

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