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Re: smoke unit replacement parts
On Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:13:19 -0600 "Steve Wise" <swise@aoot.com> writes:
> Hi all,
> reply from jas.e.smiley wednesday with interior module standing
awaiting the numerous bridge tracks, IN CAPS
> I don't know if anyone else had this problem, but I thought I'd
> email out my
> findings.
>
> I had some smoke units burn on out on my modern lionel steam
> engines. I
> like to fix things myself, so I didn't consider sending this to
> lionel or a
> repair shop. So I went on-line after reading Jim Barretts article
> on smoke
> units in Run 184 of O-Gauge Railroading. After two rounds of
> purchases,
> I've found some part numbers that seem to be useful for ordering
> replacement
> parts.
>
> The parts in question are:
>
> 1. Smoke unit top (black plastic top that fits on top of the smoke
> chamber,
> with the smoke stack hole in it).
> I LIKE METAL TOPS FOR CLUB RUNNING. THE PLASTIC TENDS TO WARP HEN
ENGINE HAS RUN 1 TO 2 HOURS.
> 2. Heating element. This is a resister that heats up and gently
> burns the
> liquid smoke producing that smoke that we all know and love (and
> Adrian is
> addicted to :-). This looks like a large resistor and the two
> wire-ends NICAD WIRE N HEATER ELEMENT> poke out of the smoke unit top
and connect to ground on one side and
> your
> controller board's power on the other. The ground side is soldered
> to the
> outside of the smoke unit chamber.
> I PERFER SHRINK WRAP ON THE HOT SIDE TO AVOID SHORTS
> 3. Heating element cover. This is a woven fiberglass cover that
> keeps the
> heating element from buring the smoke unit lining. It is what you
> see
> crossing the smoke stack hole when you look down in from the top.
> It gets
> dark with use and abuse. It disintegrates after a while and the
> heating
> element burns up. This all happens fairly quickly if you run an
> engine
> without liquid smoke in the stack!
>UPS 100 % MINERAL OIL TEND TO STINK UP THE HOUSE SO I ALWAYS RUN AT
HOIME WITHOUT FLUID.AND DO NOT FIND THE BURN OUTS CAN BE CHARGED TO NO
SMOKE FLUID.
AT YORK , I TALKED TO MIKE WOLF ABOUT THEIR MTH WARRANTY PROBLEM
WITH THERE 15' TAMPAX WHICH BURNS WITHOUT MINERAL OIL. IT TAKES AN
EXPERIENCED REPAIR MAN 20 MINUTES TO REMOVE AND RELOAD A NEW TAMPAX.
THEY HAVE A SLIDE SWITCH TO TURN OFF THE TAMPAX BURNER MANUALLY WHEN IT
IS OUT OF MINERAL OIL
>4. Smoke unit lining. This is a flat yellow disk that sort of looks
> like
> yellow fiberglass insulation. It sits in the bottom of the smoke
> unit
> chamber and acts as a wick to pull the liquid smoke up to the
> heating
> element. Jim Barrett recommends putting two of these in if you
> replace them. I'LL TRY THAT NEXT I OPEN UP AN ENGINE FOR A NEW NICAD
WIRE
I HAVE BEEN CUTTING MY FIBERGLASS INSULATION DOWN TO LIONEL SIZE
ASSUMING THEY KNOW BEST
\> as they work better at keeping the liquid smoke on the heating
> element (thus
> keeping the element from burning out).I AM NOT SURE ABOUT THIS.
>
> I found that I can order items1-3 as a single replacement part,
> number
> 8206-11. I think this number is standard, but I got them from Stan
> Orr
> Train Parts (http://stanorrtrainparts.com) for $5 each. This is
> really all
> you need to fix a burnt out smoke unit.
>
> Item 4 is number 671-221 and I got them for $.35/ea from Stann Orr.
> IN 1946 LIONEL CAME OUT WITH A 671 ENGINE WITH SMOKE PILLS SMOKE. A
DIMPLED HEADLAMP, BOILER AND A WHEEL HAD A FLAPER CAM PIN WHICH
ACTIVATED THE BELLOW FLAPPER TO PUSH OUT THE SMOKE THRU THE STACK. THEY
SCREWED UP AND HAD TO ADD A BOOSTER WHICH PROVIDED THE FLAPPER WITH TWICE
THE PERIOD OF TRAVEL OF THE FLAPPER.
THIS WAS A BIG LIONELL SELLER AND THEYHAD LOTS OF TROUBLE WITH THE SMOKE.
IN 1946 THEY CAME OUT WITH A HEATER BLOCK AND A NICAD WRAPPED ELEMENT TO
HEAT THE PILLS WITH A REDESIGNED FLAPPER.THE LIONEL MAGNA TRACTION 671
WAS ISSED AS A 682 AND MINERAL OIL SMOKE.
>Also, Jim Barrett recommends you seal the smoke unit top using
> Permatex
> Form-A-Gasket non-hardening sealant. You can get this at most auto
> stores.
> He claims sealing this will improve the performance be eliminating
> smoke
> leaks out the sides of the some unit where it joins with the the
> smoke unit
> top. THERE IS A LIFESAVER SHAPED GASKET ABOVE THE PLASTIC TOP TO LIMIT
LOSSES. YEARS AGO THEY RECOMMEND A FURNACE CEMENT AND YOU HAD A HARD TIME
REMOVING THE COVER. I OPP FOR NO SEALANT AND CAN USURALLY POP THE TOP TO
REPLACE THE ELEMENT WITHOUT A JACK HAMMER.
>
> I also have part numbers for replacing the entire unit if anyone is
> interested.
> JIM BARRETT HAS ABOUT A 1/2 DZ VIDEOS ON REPAIRS AND I LIKE HIS
COMMENTS IN O'GA MAGAZINE TOO. BYE, BJ.1
> Cheers!
>
> Stevo.
>
>
> ------
> TTAT members reflector.
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