You may need to have an angled joint on the lift end of the bridge. For a lift bridge the profile/elevation should look like this. The red lines are the joints.
The other thing is that to support the bridge you can have a shelf or a locking joint like Bill talked about. You could install vertical bolts that stick into holes on the swinging piece (don't put the bolts facing down on the swinging piece because they will hit someone in the head). This is similar to the alignment bars Ira did on the trolley modules. You could also install simple, flat metal bars with hooks cut into them on both faces that fall into pockets on the stationary piece.
I think you already have the track part sorted, but I learned that it's best to have track pins in the stationary side and spread the
tubular track enough on the lift side to let it rest on the fixed track pins to keep the track aligned.
p.s.
I'm
sorry I have not been more active lately but our little boy just turned
6 months. I'm sure he'll be ready to play trains in no time. I also
have a lot of items I want to give the club as donations for raffles or
use on the layout if you want them.
From: scott A Smiley <sc.smiley@juno.com>
To: ttat-members@aoot.com
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2014 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: Walk thru module
Good idea. If I am thinking about this correctly, we need a vertical
face to mount on. We have one on each part but they are about an inch
apart, to allow for clearance of the support as it swings upward.
Keep the ideas coming. This is great. We have lots of
creativity in the group and it shows with this type of discussion.
One of the other requests we have for the bridge is to have a guardrail on
it. This rail could provide the vertical surfaces we would need for this
connection or for the simple one I came up with.
Scott
On Thu, 30 Jan 2014 10:03:12 -0600 Bill Lohman <844bill@gmail.com> writes:
At our home we have two large paintings hung with a type of heavy duty hangar that might work for the walk thru module. Might not.This type of hangar consists of two long rectangular sections. Look kinda like aluminum rulers. One section, the wall part, has a female groove facing upward and running the length of the section. The second section, the painting part, has a male edge facing downward and running the length of the section.The painting is placed against the wall slightly above the female hanger and then just slid down slightly until the two parts connect. Makes for a very secure mounting.In a similar manner, the grooved female part could be added to the fixed part of the module and the male part to the swing up part. When lowered down a very strong and precise connection is made. The hangar is made of aluminum and has a large number of pre-drilled countersink holes so it could be securely mounted and being aluminum would hold up to the rigors of use.The only concern is the combined width of the two pieces. About the width of a couple of rulers. If width is an issue the tracks could just be made longer. Even if the gap between the two module parts were a little wider it wouldn't matter because the two modules would be very securely fastened by the action of the device.As for lateral motion. A blocking device like a screw can be placed just outside both ends of the female section so the parts don't slide sideways in the groove. This could be done in a manner to make a tight fit or to provide some lateral slack which we seem to usually need due to tinplate track and module wood expanding and retracting with temperature and humidity.We could then just leave the latches on the top so the bridge isn't accidentally lifted.These hangars come in a variety of lengths. 6 to 24 inches I think. You can see them at Lowes or Home Depot and maybe Michaels.I have a couple that I could bring to the workday but I will be in the San Francisco area at O Scale West that day and can't attend. Rick or whoever is welcome to drop by and pick them up so you can see them.A better idea might be to go to the stores to see the variety available to see if one of them might work better than another -- or if at all.For what it's worth, I REALLY missed the Walk Thru module at San Antonio and really appreciate that Scott and (I think) Adrian built it for us. So, good luck in improving it. I'm hoping it will be available for New Braunfels. Bet other less agile guys are hoping, too. Besides, I feel it's demeaning for an elderly gentleman to be seen crawling around on the floor like a toddler -- even if life does go full circle!Bill
On Thu, Jan 30, 2014 at 8:01 AM, scott A Smiley <sc.smiley@juno.com> wrote:
I understand your idea but there is only about 1/2" or thin plywood that overlaps between the pieces. There is nothing strong enough on the lift section to hold the bolt. My second idea adds more overlapping material that can then secure the catch whether bolt/pin or angle iron.ScottOn Wed, 29 Jan 2014 23:25:56 -0500 (EST) rick <rbd1949@aol.com> writes:I think 2 bolts attached to lift section dropped into 2 holes drilled in fixed section is sufficient to keep bridge from separating. bolts could be one eighth to quarter inch diameter.
Rick-----Original Message-----
From: scott A Smiley <sc.smiley@juno.com>
To: ttat-members <ttat-members@aoot.com>
Sent: Wed, Jan 29, 2014 10:04 pm
Subject: Re: Walk thru module
I have another idea for the latch mechanism. WE add an angle iron to the top of the small fixed end unit. Then a new board on top of the lift up section that has a notch in it to hook on the angle iron. One on each side will fit in the same line as the hinge support boards. this would still rely on gravity to hold it down.On Tue, 28 Jan 2014 22:08:41 -0600 Scott A Smiley <sc.smiley@juno.com> writes:Another very simple approach would be to take off the slide latches and replace them with one latch that would not only hold the bridge down from kids lifting it but also draw the sides together. The latches on the facias are the type I am suggesting. They reach out and then draw the parts together. It would need to be opened and closed with each entry but under your watchful eye, it could be released while waiting for a train to pass so you can get it up and down quickly before the next train comes. We can look at this on the work day Feb. 8. I have the latches to consider.There are other options being discussed as well. So bring your ideas.ScottOn Tue, 28 Jan 2014 12:07:13 -0600 "Steve Rorer" <jbrorer@gvtc.com> writes:I think the way to keep the walk thru module from spreading apart is to run strap from the modules on each side under the floor of the walk thru module. We could use one of the tie down straps and chinch it up lightly to keep the modules from spreading apart. It would be an easy thing to try at the next show.Regards Steve